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1978 DATSUN DIFFERENTIAL SERVICE GUIDE

  DIFFERENTIAL ROAD TEST AND DIAGNOSIS

INTRODUCTION:

BEFORE you remove the differential from a vehicle, perform a complete diagnosis. Road testing a vehicle to detect exact symptoms is essential for proper diagnosis. This will save time, since you may avoid overhauling the differential because of a noisy transmission or wheel bearing. A complete diagnosis will also tell you exactly where to look for defects during disassembly. Be sure to print out the blank road test worksheet for your records. 




Read Background Notes about this Datsun Service Guide

CONTENTS: 
  1.  Road Test Procedure
  2.  Interpreting the Road Test
  3. Diagnostics on the Bench Prior to Disassembly
    (#3 information not published at this time)
  4. Read important "Caution" statement
  5.  ZP printing instructions
  6. Due to many request zpARTS is attempting to produce a CD version of this manual. To be notified when ready please place yourself on the CD Waiting List.
 

  1. ROAD TEST PROCEDURE

ROAD TEST STEPS
Noise Factors
Med
Loud
Clunk
OK
1. Steady acceleration, light throttle.        
2. Steady acceleration, heavy throttle.        
3. Steady deceleration, from high speed.        
4. Light deceleration-on and off accelerator pedal.        
5. Cruising at low speeds up to 30 - 45 MPH.        
6. Cruising at high speeds 45 MPH and over.        
7. Cornering, steady speed at part throttle.        
8. Cornering, deceleration and acceleration.        
9. Harsh shifts, first to second on straight road and around corners.        
10. Vehicle stopped, shift between first and reverse, brake applied.         
11. Shift between first and reverse, brake released.        
 

  2. INTERPRETING THE ROAD TEST

 
Customer Comment
Probable Cause of Defect
Diagnostic Step - Road Test
Final Diagnosis - Shop Test
CAUTION (click here)
Whines at high  
speeds
 
(A) Transmission speedometer gear. 
 
 

(B) Defective differential front pilot bearing (independent suspension models). 
 

(C) Defective wheel bearings.

(A) Drive vehicle at speeds 
45 MPH and over. 
 
 

(B) If whine present on de-celleration, this indicates front bearing or pilot bearing. 
 

(A) With vehicle on lift, use hearing device to locate 
noise at transmission hous- 
ing and gear cable. 

(B) Use hearing device to locate bearing noise at front of differential housing and to make sure that the noise is not caused by wheel bearings or transmission problems.

Whines or howls at low speed under a load (heavy throttle or when 2 or more passengers  
occupy vehicle). 
 
(A) Defective rear pinion 
bearing. 
 
 
 

(B) Improper pinion height causing poor tooth contact area. 
 

(A) Drive vehicle at low speeds up a hill if possible, and under a load. If noisy, see (b) shop test. 
 

(B) Check noise factor on decelleration If present, see (b) shop test. 
 

(A) Using a hoist or jack and 
stand, run the vehicle to 
verify loudest noise using 
hearing device. Replace 
rear pinion bearing. 

(B) If noise is present on both 
acceleration and deceleration, it is most likely
caused by improper pinion height. Be sure to take a pattern reading.

Whines or howls on deceleration  
only.  
 
(A) Improper backlash.  
 

(B) Improper pinion  
height.  
 

(A) Drive vehicle at all speeds.  

(B) If noise only present on deceleration, the problem  can usually be corrected  by adjustment of backlash or pinion height. If backlash is incorrect, you will also feel a slight clunk  
if you accelerate and  
decelerate quickly.  
 

(A-B) Testing on a lift will  
usually not be beneficial  
as you would not hear the  
noise factor without de-  
celeration load. Disassemble  
and check tooth pattern.  
  
  
  
  
  
 
Clunks when 
shifting or 
going around 
corners. 
 
(A) Differential hangers, 
bushings loose or 
worn. 

(B) Improper clearance 
of side gears. 

(C) Spider gear shaft worn. 

(D) Improper backlash. 
 

(A) Drive vehicle and shift 
under load and no load 
conditions. If the differ- 
ential hangers are loose 
or the mounts are 
defective, the clunk 
will be heavy and felt 
through the entire body. 

(B-C-D) If more of a knocking 
sound, drive the vehicle 
around corners while 
shifting. This will in- 
crease the clunk effect. 
 

(A) Check on hoist using pry 
bar. Replace defective 
parts. 

(B) If the vehicle clunks while 
testing on straight road, 
this indicates improper 
backlash. 

(C) If the vehicle clunks on 
straight roads when shift- 
ing and around corners, 
this indicates side gear 
clearance. Readjust or 
replace side gears. 
 

Howls or growls 
at all speeds 
 
(A) Defective gear set 

(B) Defective side bearings. 
 
 
 

(C) Rear wheel bear- 
ings. 
 

(A-B) Drive vehicle at various 
speeds to determine if 
noise changes tone under 
load or coasting. 
 
 

(C) Drive the vehicle around 
corners to see if the noise 
level is high around right 
or left turns. 
 

(A-B) If the noise level changes very little, the problem is most likely bearings. If the noise level changed excessively, it is most likely the gear set. 

(C) If the noise level changed 
around corners, jack up 
one wheel at a time (use 
jack stand). Run in gear 
while one wheel is lock- 
ed. Observe noise factor 
change. Use hearing 
device to isolate the loud- 
est area (wheel bearing or 
side bearing).

Leaks (A) Front case pinion 
shaft seal. 

(B) Cover gasket. 

(C) Loose plug. 
 

(A) Road test to verify that 
the leak is not accompanied by a noise indicating  a defective pilot or
front pinion bearing. 
 
(A-B) Place the vehicle on a 
hoist and inspect for
loose pinion shaft seal  or defective gasket. 

(C) Check the drain plug and 
plug socket (may be
cracked around housing). 
 

 


 
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